We ended up staying in Valdivia for five days, which was good as we got some more paperwork done and collected some hard to find bits to add to our ‘gear pile’ in order to achieve self sufficiency on the road/campsite. We also visited the small Curiñanco Reserve which has four different forest types in a very small area. We were the only people visiting and got a very detailed description on the paths we were to take and what we were to see if we were going to walk clockwise. When finished with that, he did the whole story again from end to start, just in case we wished to walk anti-clockwise, so we felt quite well prepared! He also ensured us that it wasn’t dangerous, no pumas or other big cats, just pudús (smallest existing deer), which we really want to see, but no luck. The park was beautiful, with lookouts over the ocean. We also came across some massive vultures, not the most attractive birds around…

From Valdivia we drove to Entre Lagos, another town on a lake where we hoped to find some nice camping. It was a bit disappointing so after one night we moved on to Puerto Varas, which is a popular town with tourists for its outdoor activities and lake side beaches. On the way there we drove up the Osorno volcano for some amazing views.

Lago Llanquihue and Volcan Osorno

A day in the office, detailed map and GPS being worked hard by Julia to guide us over the backroads of Chile

Volcan Osorno

Lookout from Volcan Osorno

La coche estacionamente en el volcan Osorno con Ricardo

Packed beaches in Puerto Varas

We stayed in Puerto Varas just for the night as we were really keen on getting to the island of Chiloé. This was the first time we stayed at a hostel, where we camped in the backyard and finally met some other travellers, which was nice. We did notice that we have seamlessly adjusted to the Chilean rhythm. Normally there is always a rush in the kitchen around dinner time, but by the time we had been for a run and were ready to cook it was 9pm and everyone was finished. The same happened for breakfast, when we were ready for breakfast all the Germans had left the hostel already and it was just us and an Argentinean woman and Peruvian man, who we had a nice conversation with. Most accommodations in Chile have breakfast included in the price, which I find a nice way to start the day. You sit down and it all appears in front of you! Typical times for meals here are, breakfast from 8.30 to 10.30, lunch from 1 till 3 and dinner from 8.30 to 10.30.

One of the many roadside shops, although one of the nicer ones.

Quite the display! We bought berries, half a block of cheese from the uncooled cabinet and an ‘Empanada del Horno’, which is a pastry with meat, onion, egg and olives, comparable to a meat pie.

Very cheap raspberries and blueberries!

This morning we took a ferry to Chiloé, which is about a half hour boat ride. No wait involved, there are about 8 ferries going up and down and they only dock for about 5 minutes and then move off and make space for the next one, one of the most efficient Chilean operations we have seen!

We’ve found a very nice hostel in Ancud, it is basically someone’s home, where they live in a room in the back and rent out all the other bedrooms. It’s a beautiful house though and probably the best we’ve had so far. We’ll stay for two nights and do a day trip from here to the penguins and a little town up the coast that has a ‘festival’ tomorrow.

We just came back from a walk around Ancud and it has definitely a different feel from mainland Chile, slightly different culture. On the waterfront it has the typical exercise equipment that we have seen in many towns. Especially Julia loves it and we always spend some time working out. People stare (and laugh) at us, but that’s ok.

Chiloe, a bit like NZ!?

Julia working out at Ancud waterfront

Driving in Chile so far has been fine, it does take full concentration though. People make lots of random manoeuvres or suddenly stop or slow down with no warning. Also the roads are quite often bad, there is not as much asphalt, but more concrete, with cracks or pieces missing on the side. That maybe explains why people hug the middle of the road, making it especially difficult to overtake slow trucks as you can’t see past. Defensive driving is a must and so is the horn. I am looking to upgrade the horn to something a bit louder as the Suzuki makes a sound quite similar to a coughing goat when I try to warn people to not change lanes into the side of our car. Despite the chaos and randomness of people actions sometimes, there seems to be a lot less aggression on the road then in NZ or NL, which is nice.